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Tulum, Mexico & The Mayan Ruins - Introduction
The Gran Cenote is not far outside Tulum Pueblo, 21/2 miles (four km) down the road west toward Cobá. A small admission fee (US $3) and a climb down some steep steps into an open limestone sinkhole finds the bright blue water of the Gran Cenote. A cenote is formed when underground water collapses the limestone overhead, creating a sinkhole or cave. Where the water flows under the Gran Cenote's cave to an open area beyond makes a fabulous place for snorkeling. On the other side of the open area is a deep-water pool, where only the brave dive from the rock ledge above. Another cenote worth a visit is Cenote Crystal, a short distance south of Tulum Pueblo on 307. This cool clear languid cenote, surrounded by trees, is great for swimming and snorkeling. It's a hot spot for cave divers because of the extensive network of underwater caves, including one that leads under the road to another cenote on the other side. Day Trips Day trips
from Cancún frequently
include a swimming/snorkeling stop at Xel-Há after the
hot sun at the Tulum
ruins. It's a great idea and worth doing even if you're
on your own. Xel-Há
park is fairly close by, back up the road toward Playa.
See Cancún's Dawn to
Dusk section.
FoodIn addition to the restaurants in Tulum's welcome center, where they have somewhat of a captive audience, there are some good eateries in the little village of Tulum Pueblo. It's hard to even drive through the town without getting hungry - the smoky smell of delicious pollo carbon, grilled chicken, drifts across the road from the many charcoal grills on both sides of the street. Try some; you'll like it. An increasing extranjero (foreigner) population here has brought a few more cosmopolitan restaurants. We especially liked the following: Il Giardino di Toni y Simone Up a side
street near where the
concrete road divider begins
No telephone Moderate To get to Il Giardino when you're heading south, make the first right at the beginning of town. It's a short but bumpy bit of road so, just in case your muffler falls off, there's an auto breakdown shop on the corner. Only two blocks on the right is this lovely garden restaurant run by Toni and Carmela (Simone is Carmela's daughter) that features fine Italian cuisine and wine. The large kitchen is behind stone walls and dining is under a palapa overhang on the porch. Or you can eat under individual palapa umbrellas on an artificial beach. Very welcome are their spotlessly clean bathrooms. Meals are pricier than one would normally expect in a town like Tulum, but the food here is presented beautifully and absolutely delicious. If you've just discovered the ruins nearby, this is a good place to celebrate the experience. Don't leave without having cappuccino with cream. La IslaSide road near where the concrete divider ends Reservations not necessary Inexpensive/Moderate This place is a little hard to find. Make the last right- hand turn (at Doña Tina's restaurantright) when heading south in Tulum Pueblo. La Isla is one block in. (A huge philodendron plant nearly covers the front so look hard, it's worth finding.) Appearances are deceiving at this perennially popular but outwardly shacky-looking restaurant. It's cool and attractive inside and serves up excellent homemade pasta, pizza, vegetarian dishes and fresh fish. Captain Gemini'sMiddle of
town
Reservations not necessary Inexpensive/Moderate The Captain's is a cool thatched-roofed place for lunch on a hot day and a popular spot at night for dinner. The bar fills up in the evening. Sit at their high tables in bar chairs and enjoy good food at reasonable prices. High standard of cleanliness. Right next door there's a new arts and crafts shop called Utzi Ché, which means 'precious wood.' It features beautiful useful and decorative pieces made by local artists. El Crucero Motel & RestaurantTulum Hotel
Zone
No telephone Inexpensive Huge split-leaf philodendrons climb the columns that hold up the front porch of this corner restaurant on the old road to ruin. The shady overhang provides an enticingly cool place to sit and enjoy some excellent Mexican cooking from the varied menu. Friendly owners Patricia Zapata and Mario Murello worked in the Akumal resort before opening their own place here in Tulum in 1977. Back off the road is their wooden, 16-room, two-story motel. The rooms, with two twin-size beds, are somewhat spartan but nice and clean. Both the motel and restaurant are a good budget value. |
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