Cozumel (co-zoo-MEL) , Mexico's largest inhabited island, is also one of the country's biggest paradoxes. Serene, laid-back and somewhat undiscovered by Mexico's 20 million annual visitors, Cozumel rivals many Caribbean island destinations when it comes to visitor facilities, activities, and stunning beauty.

Yet until recently, the island has been best known as a cruise ship port-of-call and mecca for hard- core scuba divers. Cozumel is now shedding some of its 'divers only' reputation and making strides in attracting more mainstream international guests. The majority of the island's visitors are now families, eco- tourists, honeymooners, and Yucatan-bound visitors that find nearby Cancún a bit overwhelming.

Cozumel's appeal lies with its combination of the best of Mexico (friendly people, affordable prices, great dining/shopping, interesting cultural sightseeing) with the allure of vacationing on a Caribbean island. This mix makes Cozumel one of Mexico's most unique destinations, offering a hard-to-find vacation duality.

Cozumel has more than 30 reefs stretching off the coast and hosting the world's second largest reef.   With the multitude of reefs, divers will have to return again and again to explore even a small portion of what is offered.  The famous Palancar Reef , with visibility of up to 86 meters, offers about 40 dive spots, each providing a different adventure.  One can select from novice dives to challenging dives recommended for experienced divers only. 

Visitors should take care and help preserve the coral reefs.  Divers and snorkelers should keep a safe 3 -5 feet distance from coral to prevent from kicking and breaking coral and hold back the impulse to touch or remove anything from the marine environment.  Simply touching coral will kill it.  With some corals even touching it can be a painful experience.

Cozumel isn't just for experienced divers but also for beginners and snorkelers.  Snorkeling is the second most popular sport on the island. For novice snorklers, there is no need to swim far distances or take a boat trip to take advantage of the reefs.  Great snorkeling opportunities await even at hotel beaches.   Fish feeding is a common activity at some beaches.  Also, 100 meters off of La Ceiba pier is a sunken 40-passenger plane serving as a reef to all sorts of colorful marine life, with a visibility of 30 meters.

The warm, calm waters with easy access to exciting marine life makes Cozumel an ideal place for families with children. Cozumel offers an underwater paradise, access to all the necessary safe diving equipment and safety programs for divers and swimmers alike.  And when you need a break from water sports, there are endless sights to see and activities to do just by taking the ferry across to the Yucatan Peninsula.  There is no doubt why Cozumel is one of the world's favorite diving and sun destinations.

TRANSPORTATION

GETTING AROUND: San Miguel (population 60,000) is the only city on Mexico's largest island at 47 km (28 miles) long and 15 km (11 miles) wide. With a maximum elevation of 45 feet, the island sits 18 km (11 miles) offshore from Playa del Carmen. Two ferry services - a car ferry from Puerto Morelos and a people ferry from Playa del Carmen - serve Cozumel from the Yucatan n mainland. The ferry service from Playa (US $7) changes schedule as often as we change underwear so check at one of the ticket booths. San Miguel also has an international airport with some direct flights landing from the States and numerous 15-minute connecting flights from Cancun (call Aerocozumel, 98/84-20-00).
 
The scrub brush jungle covers the northern half of the island, which is virtually uninhabited. The southern portions, the interior and the entire windward east coast also have few inhabitants. A road loops the entire southern part along the sea, and then cuts back into town, dividing the island in half, while a coastal road follows the northern shore to its end. The concentration of population in San Miguel makes for some interesting expeditions and explorations far from the madding crowd.

The Chankanaab National Park, south of town, may have some crowds but is a great place to snorkel, sun and see a botanical garden. The western shore beaches - both north and south of the main pier - are very beautiful. The northern section is mostly hotels and private homes of the wealthy; to the south are the 'public' beaches.  Besides taxis (a good choice when going direct from one place to another), three types of personal transportation are available: motorbikes, bicycles and cars - especially four-wheel-drives. Many major hotels rent motorbikes or cars and every street corner downtown near the dock has men hawking rentals. Cozumel's excellent roads combined with long stretches of wilderness make a motorbike ideal - and they even have automatic shifts. The prices on vehicles are pretty much the same between individual renters, especially near the dock, but you could try going direct to some of the shops in town or waiting until the ferry is empty and the crowd disbursed before negotiating. It's illegal to ride without a helmet and a rental may not come with insurance, so check first.

If you are already a crowd, or want to really see every detail of Cozumel's wilderness, try getting a good deal on a Jeep. Only a four-wheel-drive vehicle can handle the arduous northeast coast road (in the dry season only) to El Real ruin, a minor Maya ruin overlooking a good snorkeling spot. Farther along, are the dramatic picturesque Punta Molas lighthouse warning ships of the reefs - then you have to turn around and bounce back. Take note, Jeeps carrying more than five people are subject to a moving violation ticket and impound of the car. The rest of Cozumel has excellent roads and enough to see and do to keep occupied, even if it's nothing more than floating around in the warm Caribbean waters.
If you're staying in town, a bicycle is handy on the more lightly traveled side streets. For longer hauls down to southern beaches or to do the island 'loop' you'd have to be very fit. Bikes are rented at several of the car rental agencies.

The streets in Cozumel make it easy to know where you are... once you get used to them. Av. Rafael Melgar is the main road running along the western waterfront. Roads running north and south, parallel to the water, are avenidas and those running perpendicular to the sea, east and west, are Calles. The sole exception to this is Av. Benito Juarez, which cuts San Miguel and the island into northern and southern halves and should be a 'calle,' but is not. The streets north of Juarez are marked 'norte' and have even numbers (i.e. 2, 4, 6, etc.). All the Calles south of Juarez are 'sur' and are given odd numbers (3, 5, 7...). Vehicles traveling north and south are supposed to have the right of way, while those traveling east and west are required to stop on every corner. Drive carefully and look before you go.  Parking can sometimes be scare in town so be careful of NO PARKING zones. Your car or motor could be towed or the license plate removed so that you pay a fine at the rental agency.

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